Local Marseille Guide: Top 10 tips
Following the change of capital of culture in 2013, but not gentrified, France's second city remains a bright cultural, ethnic and gastronomic melting pot
Alexandre is a modernist chef I admire a lot, and her restaurant is worth a gourmet meal, especially at lunch (noon delicious menus from 39-92 euros). He opened AM four years ago and was awarded the Michelin Star in 2016. The meal here is very surprising: there is no written menu, just tasting options that can amount to 10 servings but actually contain 20-30 small dishes. Born in Congo, Alexandre contains astonishing global ingredients in her kitchen - tapioca from Africa, kumbawa from Asia, sata and sake from Asia - as well as the wonderful fish and seafood we have in the Mediterranean.
We've been passionate about pizza here since the 1950s, when the Town Hall allowed wood-fired pizza trucks - early street food. Every street corner has a pizzeria, including legendary addresses like Chez Etienne and Chez Sauveur, known for its classic thin, crisp tomato, anchovy and olive. But I recently discovered La Bonne Mère, a tiny spot behind Notre-Dame de la Charité. Young owners Jeremy and Mahéva are purists, offering a small but delicious selection (from € 12). Pizzas made from organic flour and juicy buffalo mozzarella are cooked in a wood-fired oven. I like their specialty Bonne Mère with the extra anchovies. Booking is essential.
Located in the maze of narrow streets, Le Marché des Capucins is the rich heart of Marseille. Tourists find fresh, cheap fruits, vegetables and picnic supplies. I've always been inspired by its exotic grocery stores, such as Saladin, whose spice house is as well-equipped as the Marrakech souk. Up the street, look at the Maison Empereur, a labyrinth dating back to 1827, with all the kitchen appliances under the sun. For lunch, try a $ 6 plate of grilled sardines, Algerian salads and a chorba soup on the corner of Comptoir des Beaux Arts, or join the glamorous crowd at L'Epicerie l'Ideal, the newly opened Julia's cafe delicacy. Sammut, France's influential Le Fooding guide.
It won't be long before we get out of our town to Calanque, to the wild ravine-shaped streams along the coast to Cassisen. The nearest calanques Sormiou and Callelongue are half an hour away, with quiet beaches and nature trails. However, I would recommend the less accessible but notable Calanque de Sugiton. Take the bus to the University of Marseille's Luminy campus for over an hour for a dramatic and challenging hike. Better yet, take the recommended anchor that floats in turquoise waters while giving Sugiton a boat trip that visits several fishponds.
Clément Higgins is a talented young baker who recently opened a modern bakery in the old garage in the south of the city, Pâtisserie Bricoleurs de Douceurs. Don't wait for baguettes and sandwiches - Clément focuses on sweet stuff, producing just seven fun, inventive pastries, cakes and servings inspired by local seasonal fruits every day, without colorings or preservatives. Don't miss out on her praline Marseille-Brest, contemporary contemporary Paris-Brest choux and succulent Peach Me infused Famous. There's a small salon de thé, but the better choice than buying a selection of pastries ($ 5 each) is to walk to the sea where numerous steps lead to huge cliffs and tiny beaches ... perfect for a picnic.
In the 21st century, Fanny opened his own snack bar in the historic neighborhood of Panier. Everything is made fresh every morning, though he admits he is hopeless with the recipes: “I can't make the same food two days in a row as it always comes out. different. “So one day he can bake a traditional beef jerk, another the vegetarian tag, then a box of pasta. He duplicates a sandwich bar in the old style of a sandwich, so while burgers can certainly be on the menu - you can't ignore what everyone wants to eat - he makes them his own, like organic goat cheese or homemade tapenade. The platform is € 6, either at the counter or in a cardboard container.
Founded in 1815, the L'Herboristerie du Père Blaize is a medicinal herb that holds over 1,000 dried herbs, plants, essential oils and spices. As I grew up, my schoolmates and I were dragged to this strange, aromatic pharmacy by our grandmothers who came here for magic drinks to cure every ailment under the sun. Ten years ago, I saw people consume less alcohol, so I worked with Père Blaize to create the Herbes de Vifs series, a modern infusion cocktail that can be hot or chilled, nicely mixed with fruits or herbal extracts.
And a few months ago, Herboristerie opened her own Tisanerie, where you can choose and taste your own detox wares, under the guidance of my bartender Vincent Eliot.
Friche la Belle de Mai has been around for a long time, but it still dominates Marseille's alternative art and cultural landscape. Located in one of the poorest neighborhoods of the city, just behind the Saint-Charles train station, this city design project spreads a fricade over a once-huge cigarette factory that produced the French emblem of Gitanes and Gauloises. Here you'll find avant-garde art exhibitions, a Saturday morning farmers' market, free outdoor cinema screenings, a huge skateboard and graffiti artists, and everything from jazz to techno concerts. In summer, the entire rooftop is open for shows, picnics and parties.
They have a great canteen, Les Grandes Tables, where memorable one-off events are held - for example, when we organized the first Le Fooding extravaganza in Marseille, bringing together innovative chefs and regional farmers.
Endoume is now the most interesting quarter in Marseille, casting off its old, raucous reputation dating back to the time of the film French Community. Although it has become one of the most trendy addresses in the city, it still has a true neighborhood atmosphere characterized by the revival of the historic La Relève Bar.
I remember when it was a real dive. Now there is craft beer and a selection of organic and natural wines. The venue will liven up for an early-morning apreo, offered at 7pm with a crowd of fun young people from around the city. However, I would like to say that no visitor to Marseille should skip the terrace of the Place de Lenche cafés in the Panier quarter, where Le Barjac serves mojitos and caipirinhas for $ 5, while Ricard's generous amps are still only $ 2 no extra charge will be made.
Marseille now has a stunning selection of world-class museums, from the avant-garde Mucem to La Vieille Charitén, housed in a former 17th-century almshouse. But this is a new, modern Marseille; when i was growing up, the kids in the museum were taken to Cantin in downtown alone. It impressed me at that time: the huge mansion, originally built as the headquarters of an African trading company, with a remarkable collection of 20th-century art, including works by Max Ernst and Miró, Picasso, Matisse, Balthus and Francis Bacon. Now, I advise my friends to visit it somewhere under the radar, away from the crowds, where you can stand in front of the canvas without being surrounded by human scum.
The traditional Foire aux Santons (sandals are terracotta figurines used in Provençal crib scenes) run from November 18 to December 31 in Marseille's Vieux Port.
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I also know another place that offers fantastic European food (in this post-Brexit world) and great bargains for just a few euro cents. It is located near the beach but far from the city center. About half an hour from the subway stop
Add 18:00 to the list of beverages la cane bière. There are shelves full of beer from around the world and in every fridge. Great to take with you outdoors and have a drink on a warm night.
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